My Objective

Explore. Experience. Inspire. Three simple things that can be applied to all aspects of life. And also the greatest wisdom that I hope to convey upon my children — Look for opportunities to explore new things. Experience as much as you can, taking the good with the bad. And be inspired. Inspiration awakens your true spirit and leads to creativity, originality and vision. Most importantly, it inspires others. 

On this journey, Summit to Sea, I intend to climb and traverse Mount Katahdin, mountain bike to the main stem of the Penobscot River and paddle the river to its end, Penobscot bay. This will be a continuous multi-day trip and is an opportunity to immerse myself in a landscape that I am deeply connected to — Maine. And to experience the pathways of the first inhabitants of the Penobscot River Watershed, The Penobscot People.

Time has proven the watershed to be a rich resource, as well as a living history of the people of Maine. And because of an unprecedented initiative by The Penobscot River Restoration Project, the river is at a crucial and pivotal turning point. Upon completion of the project, the river region will begin to achieve its full potential once again, with the return of native sea-run fisheries and increased free-flowing river sections.

Maine and the Penobscot River

I have always considered myself fortunate to have been born and raised in Maine. It is truly a special place. As the northernmost state in New England, and the largest, Maine is known for breathtaking scenery: Its dramatic, rocky coastline, its many rolling hills and mountains, and its heavily forested interior. 

I grew up along the Penobscot River, close enough to its terminus, Penobscot Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, to watch it ebb and flow with steady and strong currents. As a boy, I learned early of the Penobscot's great importance to the history and industry of Maine: Log driving, ship building and ice harvesting are a few examples that built many fortunes. And as the largest river in Maine, the Penobscot provided a means of transportation that promoted settlements and growth. 

But long before the cities and industrialization, and long before the european settlers, there were the indigenous people of the Penobscot watershed. They sustained themselves for millennia by hunting and fishing the watershed region — They are the Penobscot Indian Nation. Archaeological evidence indicates fishing by native inhabitants as early as 8,000 years ago. Many native place-names along the watershed refer to areas where migratory fish were especially plentiful. These vast native sea-run fisheries defined cultural practices and rich traditions for the inhabitants of the region.

Most of the Penobscot River valley and associated watershed are still wild and heavily forested, but unfortunately, portions of the Penobscot have not been spared the fate of so many New England rivers. Population growth, waste from cities, farms and factories, and the placement of hydroelectric damns have impacted the watershed tremendously. Currently, an extraordinary landmark effort is underway —The Penobscot River Restoration Project. It is designed to revive the Penobscot's native fisheries, which undoubtedly will give rise to the return of many social, cultural and economic traditions that have long since disappeared.

To learn more of the restoration project and gain additional perspective on its future positive impact, watch this thought provoking and insightful interview with Penobscot Nation tribal elder, Butch Phillips: Restoring the Penobscot River. 

The Penobscot River Watershed,  © 2011 Medicus Media

Mount Katahdin and Baxter State Park

As the northern terminus of the Appalacian trail and the centerpiece of Baxter State Park, Mount Katahdin is the highest mountain in Maine at 5,267 feet (1605 meters). Named by the Penobscot Indians, Katahdin means "The Greatest Mountain". As a broad massif of multiple peaks, cirques and ridges, Mount Katahdin is far more than a simple mountain. It was formed from an underground magma intrusion approximately 400 million years ago. Standing virtually alone in the primeval-like setting of the Maine north woods, it has many captivating and enticing characteristics: For example, Knife Edge — A breathtaking, serrated crest that drops thousands of feet on both sides. Also, as it was greatly influenced by alpine glaciers of the past, many moraines, eskers and picturesque ponds remain. As it stands, the main mountain forms the drainage divide between the East and West Branch of the Penobscot River.

Consisting of more than 200,000 acres, Baxter State Park is a permanently preserved wilderness area in north-central Maine. The park was created in 1931 with land donations from former Maine governor, Percival P. Baxter. Established as a gift to the people of Maine, Baxter used his personal wealth to purchase the land over a 32 year period. Mandated by the "Forever Wild" philosophy expressed by Baxter, there is no running water, electricity or paved roads within park boundaries and access and use are strictly regulated.

"The works of man are short-lived. Monuments decay, buildings crumble and wealth vanishes, but Katahdin in its massive grandeur will forever remain the mountain of the people of Maine. Throughout the ages it will stand as an inspiration to the men and women of the state."

—Percival P. Baxter

Knife Edge, Mount Katahdin

Topo Map of Mount Katahdin, Baxter State Park

The Route

As a continuous multi-day trip of 150 miles, Penobscot Pathways — Summit to Sea will involve three distinct phases of trekking, biking and paddling. At predetermined transition points, I will stage a mountain bike, a canoe and a sea kayak — As a solo undertaking, I will be carrying all essential clothing, gear, food and shelter needed to sustain myself for the duration of the trip. Priority one is making a minimal impact on these areas as I travel through the Penobscot watershed.

Trip dates: June 23 to 29, 2011

Day 1: Arrival in Baxter State Park — Staging and preparation for the trip. Camping at Roaring Brook Campground for the evening.

Day 2: 9.5 miles of hiking and climbing. The day can be broken down into 4 stages: 

The approach, ascent, traverse and summit, and finally traverse and descent. 

The Route: 

Chimney Pond Trail (3.3 miles) to Chimney Pond 

Dudley Trail (1.3 miles) to Pamola Peak 

Knife Edge (1.1 miles) to Baxter Peak

Baxter Peak, the summit of Mount Katahdin, elevation 5,267 feet 

Tableland (1 mile) to Abol Peak

Abol Slide (2.8 miles) to Abol Campground

During the approach and ascent the terrain is varied with wooded areas, open fields and rocky paths that transition to large boulders and cliffs emerging above tree line. While traversing, the rocky and steep trail morphs into a narrow, serrated ridge — This ultimately leads to the summit, Baxter Peak. After summiting, another traverse across the expanse of the Tableland plateau, which resembles arctic tundra. The final descent includes rock slides and steep wooded terrain.

Day 3: Approximately 40 miles of mountain biking and 5 miles of canoeing.

The Route:

Via bike — Abol campground (within Baxter State Park) to the main stem of the Penobscot river in the town of Medway. Via canoe — Main stem of the Penobscot river.

The cycling portion of the day will take place on a variety of surfaces — Gravel roads, heavily forested single track and powerline trails. Avoiding paved roads and auto traffic is the goal. At the transition in Medway, I will begin the water portion of the trip. By way of canoe, I will head downstream on the Penobscot River.

Days 4, 5 and 6: 70 miles of canoeing on the Penobscot river.

The Route:

From above the Mattaseunk dam to the Bangor dam. This portion of the river will involve flatwater, quickwater and class I, II and III rapids. There are also 5 dams that need to be portaged. The surrounding landscape is forested with some rural towns.

Day 7: 26 miles of sea kayaking on the Penobscot river to Penobscot bay.

The Route:
Bangor to Stockton Springs, Penobscot bay. The remaining length of the Penobscot is tidal with a range of more than 13 feet at Bangor. The surrounding landscape is still a mix of forested areas and rural towns. Portions of the river become over a mile wide, often with strong currents and challenging variables created by wind an tide.

A Journey's End: Provided all goes well, I will have successfully completed this adventure, Penobscot Pathways — Summit to Sea. 

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